Where Are We Staying? (Trip to Uruguay 1)

Our first weekend in Argentina, we crossed the border in order to visit Colonia, Uruguay.  Our expectations were high.  Founded in 1860 by Portuguese conquistadors, Colonia del Sacramento is a place rich in history. 




Photo:  Flavio Vargas GC

 

Jose Luis, Flavio -my brother, and I took the ferry from Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires, and planned to spend the weekend in Colonia.  It was also my wedding anniversary.  What a better place to celebrate, than a small colonial town overlooking Río de la Plata?



Leaving Buenos Aires



We enjoyed the view. It was cloudy, but the sun made the water look silver sometimes.  I am pretty sure that is how the river got its name. Once in town, we walked a few streets to get to our hostel.  Short houses and narrow cobblestone streets make up part of this charming town!



Colonia del Sacramento



A feeling of discomfort invaded us when the person at the hostel's front desk informed us that they were completely booked. Our reservation was not showing on their availability book! To make the story short, there was a misunderstanding and our reservation was never completed.  Our discomfort turned to anxiety when we realized it was a holiday in Argentina, and many people will be coming over to Colonia during the long weekend.  We knew finding a place to stay was going to be a difficult task.



Colonia del Sacramento



Well, I stayed in the hostel watching the luggage, while Jose Luis and my brother rushed through the streets trying to find a place to spend the night.  After a good number of tries, they found a hotel. The two next nights were booked…. For more than double we had planned to spend.  (To be continued...)

¡Feliz día Colombia!

Today is July 20^th, and we celebrate 201 years of independence.  I am wearing our colors to commemorate.  ¡Feliz día Colombia!

 

Castillo de San Felipe.  Cartagena

 

How do you celebrate holidays when not in your country?

A Colorful Street

The same afternoon I went to visit Gardel’s house, I walked this beautiful street up and down several times. Turns out that the museum organized a contest, in 2003-2004, to help rescue Fileteado, which is a type of art representative of the city.

The chosen artists would paint the façade of a few houses located in the Abasto neighborhood. The home owners agreed to leave the art untouched for at least one year. Voilá!   
After Caminito, I would say this is the most colorful block I have seen in the city.

Things did not stop there. In order to appreciate a work of art, I have to know a little about the artist and the creative process behind the piece. Therefore, I assigned myself the task of learning more about fileteado.

I discovered there is not one person who created it. However, many sources agree the art was first produced by Italian immigrants. Initially, it was used to decorate cars, but with time it extended to buses. Sadly, in 1975, the government significantly restricted the practice. In an effort not to let it disappear, fileteadores extended the use of this technique to objects, advertisement, and even body painting.

Today, fileteado has a strong presence in Buenos Aires. The law restricting its use in buses has been annulled, and the art continues to contribute to the unique identity of the city.

Click on the link for a more detailed history of Fileteado Porteño.

Click here to read about Genovese’s work and its struggle to avoid plagiarism.

A Small House for a Big Star

     In 1935, Carlos Gardel found a tragic death in Medellín, Colombia.  This event scarred the city and its people forever.  I think Colombians always appreciated Tango, but the sadness of having a star die on your land has significant consequences.  Tango grew on us and gained a place in our culture.  I remember, growing up in Colombia, seeing tango dancers during Festivals and Ferias. That is how I know that paisas share with Argentineans a deep passion for this music.  Therefore, my trip to Buenos Aires would be truly incomplete without a visit to what it was the home of one of the greatest Tango singers of all times.     

     Carlos Gardel grew up in Abasto, which at the time was known as an Italian immigrants’ neighborhood.  As soon as I arrived, I noticed the house is not as big or as fancy as other houses from the time.  It looked rather simple. I was hoping for a guided tour.  My understanding was that they had one once a day.  The receptionist, however, politely declined my request.  She indicated where to start, and told me everything was well explained. If I still had questions, she would call the guide for me.  Ok… negative points for them there.  On the other hand, the museum was free that day, and I was eager to start.

     I learned the house differs from others because it has been divided to make two homes.  It seems this transformation was not uncommon at the time due to the need to accommodate Buenos Aires’ growing population.  The tour starts where the rooms used to be.  There are three different rooms to explain Gardel’s life and death, his influence on radio and later on cinema.  My visit was pleasant, and the absence of great architecture and fancy furniture was enticing.  This exhibit does not talk about money and fame.  Instead, it talks about a family’s humble origins.  It tells about the struggles of a single mother raising a son in a country that was not her own.  It is a story we are all familiar with:  The story of a talented child who, despite the difficulties, grows up to go as far….. As far as the stars!

Random/ Interesting Things I Learned During My Visit

-          Gardel was born in France, and he spent part of his life in Uruguay.

-          He was a singer, but he also knew how to play the guitar.

-          At the beginning of his career, Gardel sang on a duet with one of his friends.

-          On October 6^th, 1933, Gardel sang for the first, and last time, in the Uruguayan radio.  The repertoire included the Pasillo Colombiano Flores Negras.

-          Gardel did not like flying.

-          The second airplane involved in the accident was called “El Manizales”.

Breakfast at Tortoni

Since this is the most important of the Café Notables, I thought to share our experience.

From left to right: Borges, Gardel and Storni

Our first morning in Buenos Aires was cloudy and rainy.  I was cold!  I changed from Texas summer heat to cool temperatures here.  My body was really feeling it.  This weather called for a good cup of hot coffee, and the place to get it is Café Tortoni.  Another good recommendation from my brother! I learned that the Tortoni was founded in the 1800’s by French man who resided in Buenos Aires. The place became famous due to important artists frequenting the bar, such as Carlos Gardel and Alfonsina Storni.  The place even has its own Tango.

Waiting for our breakfast on those chairs, looking at the wood and marble tables, you can almost experience that old Buenos Aires mentioned on poems and tango songs. Our waiter brought café con leche, orange juice –made from real oranges!-, and a tray full of sweet bread.  Everything was delicious.  After eating, we wandered a bit.  The café has a few rooms, including a small theater in which they offer Tango Shows. On our way from Café Tortoni, we strolled through Avenida de Mayo.  This is one of the most beautiful streets on the city, featuring buildings rich in architectonic details.  The buildings, the café and pastries, the people on the streets….  No wonder they say Buenos Aires is the “Paris of South America”.  

Traditionally, this has been a place for great thinkers....  ;-)

Jose Luis waiting for breakfast. 
Notice the marble tables and original chairs on the background.