Thursday, July 14, 2011

A Small House for a Big Star

     In 1935, Carlos Gardel found a tragic death in Medellín, Colombia.  This event scarred the city and its people forever.  I think Colombians always appreciated Tango, but the sadness of having a star die on your land has significant consequences.  Tango grew on us and gained a place in our culture.  I remember, growing up in Colombia, seeing tango dancers during Festivals and Ferias. That is how I know that paisas share with Argentineans a deep passion for this music.  Therefore, my trip to Buenos Aires would be truly incomplete without a visit to what it was the home of one of the greatest Tango singers of all times.     
     Carlos Gardel grew up in Abasto, which at the time was known as an Italian immigrants’ neighborhood.  As soon as I arrived, I noticed the house is not as big or as fancy as other houses from the time.  It looked rather simple. I was hoping for a guided tour.  My understanding was that they had one once a day.  The receptionist, however, politely declined my request.  She indicated where to start, and told me everything was well explained. If I still had questions, she would call the guide for me.  Ok… negative points for them there.  On the other hand, the museum was free that day, and I was eager to start.
     I learned the house differs from others because it has been divided to make two homes.  It seems this transformation was not uncommon at the time due to the need to accommodate Buenos Aires’ growing population.  The tour starts where the rooms used to be.  There are three different rooms to explain Gardel’s life and death, his influence on radio and later on cinema.  My visit was pleasant, and the absence of great architecture and fancy furniture was enticing.  This exhibit does not talk about money and fame.  Instead, it talks about a family’s humble origins.  It tells about the struggles of a single mother raising a son in a country that was not her own.  It is a story we are all familiar with:  The story of a talented child who, despite the difficulties, grows up to go as far….. As far as the stars!

Random/ Interesting Things I Learned During My Visit

-          Gardel was born in France, and he spent part of his life in Uruguay.
-          He was a singer, but he also knew how to play the guitar.
-          At the beginning of his career, Gardel sang on a duet with one of his friends.
-          On October 6th, 1933, Gardel sang for the first, and last time, in the Uruguayan radio.  The repertoire included the Pasillo Colombiano Flores Negras.
-          Gardel did not like flying.
-          The second airplane involved in the accident was called “El Manizales”.

Monday, July 11, 2011

Breakfast at Tortoni

Since this is the most important of the Café Notables, I thought to share our experience.
From left to right: Borges, Gardel and Storni
Our first morning in Buenos Aires was cloudy and rainy.  I was cold!  I changed from Texas summer heat to cool temperatures here.  My body was really feeling it.  This weather called for a good cup of hot coffee, and the place to get it is Café Tortoni.  Another good recommendation from my brother! I learned that the Tortoni was founded in the 1800’s by French man who resided in Buenos Aires. The place became famous due to important artists frequenting the bar, such as Carlos Gardel and Alfonsina Storni.  The place even has its own Tango.

Waiting for our breakfast on those chairs, looking at the wood and marble tables, you can almost experience that old Buenos Aires mentioned on poems and tango songs. Our waiter brought café con leche, orange juice –made from real oranges!-, and a tray full of sweet bread.  Everything was delicious.  After eating, we wandered a bit.  The café has a few rooms, including a small theater in which they offer Tango Shows. On our way from Café Tortoni, we strolled through Avenida de Mayo.  This is one of the most beautiful streets on the city, featuring buildings rich in architectonic details.  The buildings, the café and pastries, the people on the streets….  No wonder they say Buenos Aires is the “Paris of South America”.  

Traditionally, this has been a place for great thinkers....  ;-)
Jose Luis waiting for breakfast. 
Notice the marble tables and original chairs on the background.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

Los Cafés de Buenos Aires 2


Now that I get the Cafés, I have been frequenting them more.  Ah, the pastries, the fresh coffee, my pen and humble notepad.  They are the perfect place for inspiration and writing.  I have noticed that some of the cafés I have visited are Cafés Notables.   I heard, a few days ago, on TV, that some Cafés are considered to be “Notables” – worth of mention - because without them the neighborhood would not be the same.  They contribute to the life of the community, as they are a space that facilitates creating connections between people.  I guess Cafés are to Buenos Aires of yesterday what Facebook is to youth today.   The following is a list of some of the Cafés that I have visited during my time in Buenos Aires, and they are worth coming back:


Another afternoon in Buenos Aires.
Photo:  Flavio Vargas GC


Billares (pool tables) located underground.  They offer Tango Shows and even Tango Classes!

The most famous of all!  I will share our experience at Tortoni on a future post.

Gorgeous place.  Time seems to have stopped here!  Entertain your senses with the food, the antiques, and sculptures on this place.

Claims to be the place were the Pavita Sandwich was invented.  The menu includes a good numbers of varieties of the sandwich.  I have tried a couple, and they were delicious!!

Best chocolate and churros I had while in Buenos Aires!  

A couple more:  La Turuleca (Boedo) and Café Rivas (San Telmo) are not considered notables, but are fun places.  Worth mentioning on this post.

This list is not intended to be a list of the best cafés in Buenos Aires.  These are some of the ones that I visited and liked.  If you come to the city, I am sure you will not miss them.  They are such an intricate part of the life here in the city, that, at some point, you will find yourself having coffee and medialunas in one of them!
For the complete list of  Cafés Notables, click here.



Sunday afternoon break.  Café Rivas.

Pavita Sandwich at Café Margot. 
Placemat features buildings from the city.