Photo Bloopers #2

A failed Titanic moment.

I never expected the photo blooper post to have so much success!  I guess it is time to get back at my lovely wife with this failed attempt at acrobatics aboard the ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia.  Apparently "somebody" doesn't know how to jump straight up in the air and leaped to the right!

Not your Average Office Building

I get lost pretty easily. I have to focus on the route to get from point A to point B.  During my first days in Buenos Aires, I walked on Avenida de Mayo many times, but if I looked up, it was usually looking for the street numeration.  Weeks later, looking for something else, I encountered Palacio Barolo’s website.  I called and reserved two spots for one of the tours that same afternoon.

 
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Ms. Madeere Pehrsone Alspace Dies in Buenos Aires **

Our friend Camilo, Madeere Pehrsone Alspace and I waiting to buy empanadas.

Buenos Aires, July 25. -- Madeere Pehrsone Alspace, my dear long life friend, died yesterday afternoon in Buenos  Aires, at the age of 30-something years.  Her tragic death came unexpectedly, although she had been ill for a few weeks.

The cause was complications resulting from breathing difficulties during the July 20^th celebrations, witnesses said. 

Ms. Madeere Pehrsone Alspace grew up in South America. She enjoyed having people around her, and made of sharing a way of life. 

After moving to the US however, Madeere Pehrsone Alspace started a new phase of her life.  My friend started growing larger.  She did not like to sit close to others as she used to, which made her family uncomfortable at times.  However, Madeere continued having a very fulfilling life, close to those that were dearest to her.    

Although her energy levels were not as high these last few weeks, Madeere Pehrsone Alspace never lost her enthusiasm for traveling.  In fact, we will always remember her stories about traveling trough Mexico and Colombia. She was happy during her time in Buenos Aires.  She even went on a strict diet to be able to fit among Subte passengers, stand in long lines, and reach for medialunas even when the panadería was full and space tight. 

It seems these extreme dietary measures affected her health.  I noticed Madeere Pehrsone Alspace looked tired and complained of breathing difficulties constantly.  Madeere attributed this to the cold air (sereno*) and seasonal allergies.  

The final moment arrived when Madeere was standing in line waiting to buy Colombian empanadas, in the middle of festivities taking place in The Avenida de Mayo.  Although there is nothing that can ease my pain right now, I have the peace of mind Madeere Pehrsone Alspace left surrounded by the people and culture she loved the most.

Rest in peace, Madeere Pehrsone Alspace!

...

* In Colombia, the word sereno may refer to a cold breeze that can make you sick.

**  This is a fictional piece.  Any similarities with reality are pure coincidence.

Our Very Own 7 Links!! Woohooo!!

Since our blog is still a very new project, I was thrilled when Stephanie, from The Travel Chica, nominated this site for The 7 Links Project. Thank you Stephanie!   I now present you with...


Our Seven Links!!

Most Beautiful Post:    Cartagena’s Historic District

This is one of our early posts. The pictures were taken a couple of days before our wedding in Cartagena. This post shows a beautiful city and a beautiful time in our lives.
Note: Pictures by Dukes Fotografía
 

Most Popular Post:   Small Challenges
Everyone likes to see how I solved my dirty floor problem! J


Most Controversial Post:    Simultaneous Vacation
"Why on the motorcycle?", " What about work?", "Instead of spending your free time together, you are traveling to two different places?". The list of questions we got goes on and on. To tell you the truth, even I had my reservations regarding the Texas - Alaska journey. Despite all controversy, Jose Luis rode his motorcycle up north! Glad he is done with it!


Most Helpful Post: Los Cafes de Buenos Aires (1 and 2)
I have to include two posts in this category. Los Cafes de Buenos Aires, and Los Cafes de Buenos Aires 2. The first one is about the meaning of the cafes, and the second includes a list of some of the cafes we liked. Hopefully readers will grasp the importance of these spaces in the Argentinean Barrios, and have an idea of which ones to visit.

The Success of This Post Surprised Us!   Que pan tan bello!
I found a panadería Colombiana in Carrollton, TX. Finding a little piece of your country while abroad is AMAZING. Obviously, El Portal has many fans. This has been one of our most visited posts!


This Post Didn’t Get the Attention it Deserved:    Small House for a Big Star
Here I share my experience in Gardel’s museum. Although I do not tell a whole lot about the things I learned/ observed, I double checked many of the facts online. I also read about Tango in Colombia since I didn’t want to write based solely on memories from my childhood. Being Gardel such a memorable music figure, I thought this post was going to draw more attention.


Post We are Most Proud Of:      In The Mood for Marshmallow Soup?
After the “Preparation Post” by José Luis, this is our first real post. Our blog was going to be a scrap book of our travels, places we liked, and some other random stuff. I don’t even remember when we decided it was going to be a blog, but I am glad we decided so! This post is a review of one of our favorite restaurants in Dallas. It was the first step, the post that started it all.

Nominations

I am proud to nominate Comidilla (in Spanish). Diana is a Colombian entrepreneur, and an expert in food related topics. Read her blog to learn about what you should eat/ or not, and the latest tendencies regarding Colombian cuisine!

My second nomination is my brother’s blog, Visitante o Residente (in Spanish). Flavio is currently writing from Buenos Aires. He has been traveling non-stop for years in South America - especially Colombia - and Europe. He is still my number one traveling advisor!

I was lucky to meet Bobbi and Ric through Tweeter. It is great to have another traveling couple to share our experiences with. Visit Heels and Wheels to follow their adventures through Australia and South Asia!

Some of you already know I have soft spot for fashion. That is why I am proud to introduce you to Tiffany. She is an entrepreneur with a great sense of style! Read I am Style-ish to find outfit ideas, enjoy some good photography, and even learn blogging tips!

Finally, my dear José Luis has branched out. He is slowly building up his blog about motorcycle riding and traveling. Read his posts at Another Irregular Road Trip.

Natalia and the Police.

Just as the title says, Nati just loves messing with police vehicles, I just hope I never find her inside one.  As you all may remember from THIS post, we were leaving a restaurant and sure enough there was a police car outside.  Well here she is again in Recoleta trying to open the "popo's" ride.

Simultaneous Vacation.

After a couple of weeks in Buenos Aires, Natalia and I parted ways as I was headed back to Dallas for my last week of work.  Luckily I didn't have the same issues we had with the flight on the way in.  I arrived in Dallas on Sunday and was ready for work the next day.

I walked into the office and as we had a meeting that morning, I informed the boss that my contract ended that coming Friday and it would be my last day.  I will spare you all his reaction.  I worked for one more week and prepared to head out to Alaska.

Cell phone photo but here is what the bike was looking like when I was loading it up.









As I have already posted most of the trip on my other blog, Another Irregular Trip, I will only summarize here and add some photos from the highlights.

One of my first stops was the Crazy Horse Memorial in South Dakota.  I doubt we'll ever see it finished, but at least I got to see the face.

The next stop was Mount Rushmore.  Not as impressive as Crazy Horse, but still worth checking off of the list.  Quite a bit more touristy as well, especially being the 4th of July weekend it was packed with tourists.



While still in South Dakota, I figured I would stop in Sturgis, home of the famous motorcycle rally.  I have never been to the rally, but have seen pictures and video.  Interesting to see the streets empty this time around.

Skipping ahead a bit, this was taken right as I crossed the border into Canada.

"The beginning" of the journey.  After riding through a pretty heavy storm for two days, I made it to the beginning of the Alaska Highway.

Entering the Yukon Territory.  Some of the worst road I've been on (for this bike anyway).

And finally made it to the Arctic Circle!

The map of the route.  I only made it back to Portland, OR as I started having trouble with the motorcycle and decided to play it safe.  I flew back to Dallas and had the bike shipped (It should be here any day now).

A Three Stars Hotel (Trip to Uruguay 3)

After the excitement faded of, it was time to rest.  Remember our hostel situation? Our last minute booked hotel, offered the following:

1.      Internet connection only in certain corners of the room.

2.      “Vintage” accommodations, with a strong 70’s vibe. Complete with flowery, bright pink covers, and “retro” furniture.

3.      Missing buttons remote control, which I solved pushing inside the holes with a pen or bobby pin. Other buttons didn’t work.  To change the channel you could only go down.

4.      The bathrooms have had some fixing done, and it showed….  Just not in a positive way.

5.      Water had no pressure. What came out of the shower was a coooold drizzle. Taking a shower was a torture. 

This was supposed to be a 3 stars hotel?  Hostels seemed better, and were half price!  We were annoyed.  Our pockets were sore…..*sigh*



Our room.  No internet on this corner.



To be fair, I have seen worse. There were some positives:

1. Hotel was conveniently located, close to shops, restaurants, and historic quarter.
2. Our room had a great view.
3. The heater was working! The remote had to be held directly in front of the unit, but we slept in a warm room.
4. Breakfast was included.

Nope, it just does not balance things out.  It was too expensive for what they offered.

We were the only ones in the dinning area next morning.  I was wondering what we were going to do that day and the next one. After all, we had seen most of the town main attractions.  While silently eating our barely average breakfast, Jose Luis proposed to… leave. We cancelled our reservation for the second night, and turned in the remote control, the keys, and an electrical converter to the person at the front desk. No questions asked.  That small, white rental car we got immediately after was an instant mood fixer.  No more silence, just laughter and excitement. See you later Colonia!

Mood Fixer

Railway Awesomeness

Going through the photos from our recent trip to Buenos Aires, I came across this one.  We were about 15 feet away from witnessing a taxi cab being struck by a train!

Where Are We Staying? (Trip to Uruguay 1)

Our first weekend in Argentina, we crossed the border in order to visit Colonia, Uruguay.  Our expectations were high.  Founded in 1860 by Portuguese conquistadors, Colonia del Sacramento is a place rich in history. 




Photo:  Flavio Vargas GC

 

Jose Luis, Flavio -my brother, and I took the ferry from Puerto Madero in Buenos Aires, and planned to spend the weekend in Colonia.  It was also my wedding anniversary.  What a better place to celebrate, than a small colonial town overlooking Río de la Plata?



Leaving Buenos Aires



We enjoyed the view. It was cloudy, but the sun made the water look silver sometimes.  I am pretty sure that is how the river got its name. Once in town, we walked a few streets to get to our hostel.  Short houses and narrow cobblestone streets make up part of this charming town!



Colonia del Sacramento



A feeling of discomfort invaded us when the person at the hostel's front desk informed us that they were completely booked. Our reservation was not showing on their availability book! To make the story short, there was a misunderstanding and our reservation was never completed.  Our discomfort turned to anxiety when we realized it was a holiday in Argentina, and many people will be coming over to Colonia during the long weekend.  We knew finding a place to stay was going to be a difficult task.



Colonia del Sacramento



Well, I stayed in the hostel watching the luggage, while Jose Luis and my brother rushed through the streets trying to find a place to spend the night.  After a good number of tries, they found a hotel. The two next nights were booked…. For more than double we had planned to spend.  (To be continued...)

A Colorful Street

The same afternoon I went to visit Gardel’s house, I walked this beautiful street up and down several times. Turns out that the museum organized a contest, in 2003-2004, to help rescue Fileteado, which is a type of art representative of the city.

The chosen artists would paint the façade of a few houses located in the Abasto neighborhood. The home owners agreed to leave the art untouched for at least one year. Voilá!   
After Caminito, I would say this is the most colorful block I have seen in the city.

Things did not stop there. In order to appreciate a work of art, I have to know a little about the artist and the creative process behind the piece. Therefore, I assigned myself the task of learning more about fileteado.

I discovered there is not one person who created it. However, many sources agree the art was first produced by Italian immigrants. Initially, it was used to decorate cars, but with time it extended to buses. Sadly, in 1975, the government significantly restricted the practice. In an effort not to let it disappear, fileteadores extended the use of this technique to objects, advertisement, and even body painting.

Today, fileteado has a strong presence in Buenos Aires. The law restricting its use in buses has been annulled, and the art continues to contribute to the unique identity of the city.

Click on the link for a more detailed history of Fileteado Porteño.

Click here to read about Genovese’s work and its struggle to avoid plagiarism.

A Small House for a Big Star

     In 1935, Carlos Gardel found a tragic death in Medellín, Colombia.  This event scarred the city and its people forever.  I think Colombians always appreciated Tango, but the sadness of having a star die on your land has significant consequences.  Tango grew on us and gained a place in our culture.  I remember, growing up in Colombia, seeing tango dancers during Festivals and Ferias. That is how I know that paisas share with Argentineans a deep passion for this music.  Therefore, my trip to Buenos Aires would be truly incomplete without a visit to what it was the home of one of the greatest Tango singers of all times.     

     Carlos Gardel grew up in Abasto, which at the time was known as an Italian immigrants’ neighborhood.  As soon as I arrived, I noticed the house is not as big or as fancy as other houses from the time.  It looked rather simple. I was hoping for a guided tour.  My understanding was that they had one once a day.  The receptionist, however, politely declined my request.  She indicated where to start, and told me everything was well explained. If I still had questions, she would call the guide for me.  Ok… negative points for them there.  On the other hand, the museum was free that day, and I was eager to start.

     I learned the house differs from others because it has been divided to make two homes.  It seems this transformation was not uncommon at the time due to the need to accommodate Buenos Aires’ growing population.  The tour starts where the rooms used to be.  There are three different rooms to explain Gardel’s life and death, his influence on radio and later on cinema.  My visit was pleasant, and the absence of great architecture and fancy furniture was enticing.  This exhibit does not talk about money and fame.  Instead, it talks about a family’s humble origins.  It tells about the struggles of a single mother raising a son in a country that was not her own.  It is a story we are all familiar with:  The story of a talented child who, despite the difficulties, grows up to go as far….. As far as the stars!

Random/ Interesting Things I Learned During My Visit

-          Gardel was born in France, and he spent part of his life in Uruguay.

-          He was a singer, but he also knew how to play the guitar.

-          At the beginning of his career, Gardel sang on a duet with one of his friends.

-          On October 6^th, 1933, Gardel sang for the first, and last time, in the Uruguayan radio.  The repertoire included the Pasillo Colombiano Flores Negras.

-          Gardel did not like flying.

-          The second airplane involved in the accident was called “El Manizales”.

Breakfast at Tortoni

Since this is the most important of the Café Notables, I thought to share our experience.

From left to right: Borges, Gardel and Storni

Our first morning in Buenos Aires was cloudy and rainy.  I was cold!  I changed from Texas summer heat to cool temperatures here.  My body was really feeling it.  This weather called for a good cup of hot coffee, and the place to get it is Café Tortoni.  Another good recommendation from my brother! I learned that the Tortoni was founded in the 1800’s by French man who resided in Buenos Aires. The place became famous due to important artists frequenting the bar, such as Carlos Gardel and Alfonsina Storni.  The place even has its own Tango.

Waiting for our breakfast on those chairs, looking at the wood and marble tables, you can almost experience that old Buenos Aires mentioned on poems and tango songs. Our waiter brought café con leche, orange juice –made from real oranges!-, and a tray full of sweet bread.  Everything was delicious.  After eating, we wandered a bit.  The café has a few rooms, including a small theater in which they offer Tango Shows. On our way from Café Tortoni, we strolled through Avenida de Mayo.  This is one of the most beautiful streets on the city, featuring buildings rich in architectonic details.  The buildings, the café and pastries, the people on the streets….  No wonder they say Buenos Aires is the “Paris of South America”.  

Traditionally, this has been a place for great thinkers....  ;-)

Jose Luis waiting for breakfast. 
Notice the marble tables and original chairs on the background.

Los Cafés de Buenos Aires 2



Now that I get the Cafés, I have been frequenting them more.  Ah, the pastries, the fresh coffee, my pen and humble notepad.  They are the perfect place for inspiration and writing.  I have noticed that some of the cafés I have visited are Cafés Notables.   I heard, a few days ago, on TV, that some Cafés are considered to be “Notables” – worth of mention - because without them the neighborhood would not be the same.  They contribute to the life of the community, as they are a space that facilitates creating connections between people.  I guess Cafés are to Buenos Aires of yesterday what Facebook is to youth today.   The following is a list of some of the Cafés that I have visited during my time in Buenos Aires, and they are worth coming back:



Another afternoon in Buenos Aires.
Photo:  Flavio Vargas GC



36 Billares

Billares (pool tables) located underground.  They offer Tango Shows and even Tango Classes!

Café Tortoni 

The most famous of all!  I will share our experience at Tortoni on a future post.

Bar Seddon 

Gorgeous place.  Time seems to have stopped here!  Entertain your senses with the food, the antiques, and sculptures on this place.

Café Margot 

Claims to be the place were the Pavita Sandwich was invented.  The menu includes a good numbers of varieties of the sandwich.  I have tried a couple, and they were delicious!!

La Giralda

Best chocolate and churros I had while in Buenos Aires!  

A couple more:  La Turuleca (Boedo) and Café Rivas (San Telmo) are not considered notables, but are fun places.  Worth mentioning on this post.

This list is not intended to be a list of the best cafés in Buenos Aires.  These are some of the ones that I visited and liked.  If you come to the city, I am sure you will not miss them.  They are such an intricate part of the life here in the city, that, at some point, you will find yourself having coffee and medialunas in one of them!

For the complete list of  Cafés Notables, click here.





Sunday afternoon break.  Café Rivas.



Pavita Sandwich at Café Margot. 
Placemat features buildings from the city.















Los Cafés de Buenos Aires



Bar Seddon.  San Telmo



It is cold and dark outside.  I reach into my pocket and realize I don’t have much money.  My brother looks tired, his eyes red from lack of sleep and a full day of work.  Then, we see one of those traditional cafes that abound in this city, and decide to enter.  We order coffee and orange juice.  A beautiful, melancholic tango floats on the air.  I looked around.  Fancy tables covered with white and maroon tablecloths.  An ample space behind the bar shows waiters cleaning cups and wine glasses.  Some people talking on other tables.   I imagined being alone, in that table, in front of that cup of coffee.  I felt the sadness of the music, I thought about the beauty and coldness of the buildings outside. I imagined the place being filled by words weaved together by its visitors. I sensed the smell of the coffee…  Then, it clicked.  For an instant, I knew what so many poems and tangos are coming from. Friends, good music, coffee -or wine- combined with a love for words; this mixture has to result on a poem, a song, or at least a deep conversation.  I understand why the cafés were favorite places for composers, writers, politicians, and intellectuals....  I get it!

Small Challenges

Traveling does not come without challenges and sacrifices.  Some of them weight heavily during our entire journey, while others -small ones- are just the result of leaving the comfort of home.  Today I want to talk about those small challenges (SM), those that make traveling a creative exercise, and add color to our experience.  For example, having your clothes scrambled in a suitcase instead of neatly organized in your closet is what I consider a small challenge.

This week I faced one of them.  See, José Luis and I were lucky to find a fantastic apartment that was within our budget.  It has tile instead of carpet, one of the many features we loved about it.  However, all this walking on the streets of Buenos Aires, our getting in and out of the apartment made the floors pretty duty.  I was determined to solve this problem.  The thing is…. I have no cleaning tools!  So… I came up with the awesome solution posted below.  J

What solutions have you found to ease your traveling days?  Please share!

Ta da!!!

Lost in Translation

Sometimes, even when we speak the same language, we get lost in translation.  Funny conversations I have had, things I have said, or things I have heard during this trip, so far.

      First Scenario

We just had a flight of more than twelve hours and landed in Lima.  (See my post about Peru here).  We are beyond tired.  I am trying to find someone to ask where do we need to go to obtain our taxi and hotel vouchers.  I find a lady who works at the airport. 

Me:  Excuse me; where  is the AA’s desk?

Her:  uh?

Me:  (louder) do you know where AA’s desk is?

Her:  What do you need?

Me:  I am from that flight that just landed here, the one that was going to Buenos Aires.  I am looking where to get the vouchers.

Her:  So, you didn’t make it to Buenos Aires.

Me:  No, we had to land here. It was unexpected, like an emergency landing.

Her:  An emergency landing?!  Oh my!!!  How dangerous and frightening!!!!

Me:  No!!!  It wasn’t that bad.  We just didn’t get to Buenos Aires.  It’s all because of the ash…..

Her:  Are you picking up some ash?

Me (frustrated):   No!!… Thank you.

Second Scenario

I am eating lunch.  A grandmother (GM) and his 5 to 6 years old grandson are seating on the table next to me.  She has asked him to tell her about dinosaurs.  She is taking notes as he speaks. 

Boy:  mmm….velociraptor!

GM:  And this one, also lays eggs?  Is it oviparous?

Boy:  Yes, they all lay eggs.  They are all good parents.

Third Scenario

A café in Avenida de Mayo.  We are watching the Soccer Game Colombia-Costa Rica.  (See a post about this afternoon here)

Waiter:  Who is playing?

Us:  Colombia vs. Costa Rica

-   A man later comes in.-

     Man (to the waiter):  Who is playing?

    Waiter:  Hungary  vs. Costa Rica

Fourth Scenario

My husband (JL), brother (bro) and I are waiting for the subway.  When it arrives, we see the word “LUCER” written -graffiti style- on one of the wagons.

JL:  Quiso escribir “looser” en inglés y le falló la ortografía.

Bro:  Sí, le hizo falta la tilde en la u.



Do you have "lost in translation" stories?  Laugh with us and share them here!!

Pictures!

It is hard to describe Recoleta's Cemetery.  You have to see it, or at least, see some pictures.  Enjoy.

Life, Death and Evita’s Grave

Recoleta seemed, at least to me, the most upscale area I have seen here in Buenos Aires.  The wide Avenida Libertad is framed by old buildings with beautiful balconies and smooth, elegant marble entrances.  I saw small cafés, beautiful (and equally delicious) pastries, and people that were very easy on the eyes.  I heard that wealthy people live in this area, and I have no doubt about it, especially after visiting Recoleta’s Cemetery.  

Impressive sculpture.  Cementerio de Recoleta



Visiting a cemetery was not my first thought when we arrived to Buenos Aires. At first, I was just curios about Eva Peron’s last resting place.  It has been recommended for many, so we decided to visit.
After passing the wide entrance gates, we saw a small, pristine chapel featuring a Christ’s sculpture.  We passed this quickly, however, and went ahead to enter the actual cemetery. 

In front of my eyes appeared what seems to be a small city, with structures that are not easy to recognize at first.  We started walking through the narrow halls and were able to differentiate the marble tombs that lay next to each other.  I do not mean close. They are together, like irregular objects cramped on a small shelf.  By now, I had completely forgotten about Peron’s tomb.  I was looking closely, noticing every detail around us. 

Every corner, flower, and name here tells a story.  This place tells about hopes of reaching a place higher than this Earth.  A state were suffering, sadness and worry are left behind.  Isn’t that interesting that across the globe, many cultures hold the same idea about death?

Grave Detail

The cemetery, however, says more about life. It tells of about families, their traditions, faith and morals.  This place talks about wealth and poverty, revolutions, loss, honor and triumph.  While being there, I thought about life and death.  I thought about how time, in a way, repeats itself.  The same stories of love, children and family we live today are also buried here.  Remembrances of life made cold stone for now and years to come.

Then, I remembered. We have not seen Peron’s grave!  We were now walking as fast as we can because they were closing.  It is getting darker, and colder.  Cats are walking around meowing, giving the place an even more dramatic look and feeling.   We finally found it. The Duarte Family’s burial place looks humble compared to some of the elaborated mausoleums we saw.  I think that suits Evita’s life, but her story deserves another post.

 

Evita's Grave





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Recoleta Cemetery